Big Voltage drop












3















Had an instance before when I had a voltage while running on a treadmill. I flipped all the breakers and it seem to work again for a month and now it is back and now when we use a high load appliance like the microwave the voltage drops.



I tested all the breakers by adding a load and it seems it’s on one leg. And I tested the lugs and the voltage did drop with a load. Unfortunately the tested I am using isn’t digital and doesn’t display the actual voltage but the 120 light is completely off under load and only the 24v is light. The 120v light comes back on when the appliance turns off.



Is there a problem in the house on one of the circuits? Or does the drop on the lug indicate a problem before the breaker panel?



Thanks in advance for any advice.



Edit: I picked up a digital multimeter and now under normal loads the one leg reads 125-126 and other 115ish. With the microwave on it goes becomes more unbalanced 130v one lug to 110v on the other



Edit2: with the washer a full when agitates(using the motor) voltage dropped to 97v on one leg and the 140v ish on the other. Again coming in from the service line to the main breaker. That seems to be getting too much so I called in with the PoCo reporting a partial outage.










share|improve this question

























  • Can you get a better tester that displays the actual voltage?

    – ThreePhaseEel
    9 hours ago











  • Getting one now

    – ecco88
    9 hours ago











  • If you keep turning off loads/circuits, do the legs start to balance each other out?

    – ThreePhaseEel
    7 hours ago













  • Actually turning off the breakers results in little or no change. One leg is 125-126 other now is 116-117. I literally had every breaker on the one leg turned off. Should I rearrange the breakers to see if it changes? Is it an issue on one of the branches that is causing the problem. Seems more like a service line issue.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago
















3















Had an instance before when I had a voltage while running on a treadmill. I flipped all the breakers and it seem to work again for a month and now it is back and now when we use a high load appliance like the microwave the voltage drops.



I tested all the breakers by adding a load and it seems it’s on one leg. And I tested the lugs and the voltage did drop with a load. Unfortunately the tested I am using isn’t digital and doesn’t display the actual voltage but the 120 light is completely off under load and only the 24v is light. The 120v light comes back on when the appliance turns off.



Is there a problem in the house on one of the circuits? Or does the drop on the lug indicate a problem before the breaker panel?



Thanks in advance for any advice.



Edit: I picked up a digital multimeter and now under normal loads the one leg reads 125-126 and other 115ish. With the microwave on it goes becomes more unbalanced 130v one lug to 110v on the other



Edit2: with the washer a full when agitates(using the motor) voltage dropped to 97v on one leg and the 140v ish on the other. Again coming in from the service line to the main breaker. That seems to be getting too much so I called in with the PoCo reporting a partial outage.










share|improve this question

























  • Can you get a better tester that displays the actual voltage?

    – ThreePhaseEel
    9 hours ago











  • Getting one now

    – ecco88
    9 hours ago











  • If you keep turning off loads/circuits, do the legs start to balance each other out?

    – ThreePhaseEel
    7 hours ago













  • Actually turning off the breakers results in little or no change. One leg is 125-126 other now is 116-117. I literally had every breaker on the one leg turned off. Should I rearrange the breakers to see if it changes? Is it an issue on one of the branches that is causing the problem. Seems more like a service line issue.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago














3












3








3








Had an instance before when I had a voltage while running on a treadmill. I flipped all the breakers and it seem to work again for a month and now it is back and now when we use a high load appliance like the microwave the voltage drops.



I tested all the breakers by adding a load and it seems it’s on one leg. And I tested the lugs and the voltage did drop with a load. Unfortunately the tested I am using isn’t digital and doesn’t display the actual voltage but the 120 light is completely off under load and only the 24v is light. The 120v light comes back on when the appliance turns off.



Is there a problem in the house on one of the circuits? Or does the drop on the lug indicate a problem before the breaker panel?



Thanks in advance for any advice.



Edit: I picked up a digital multimeter and now under normal loads the one leg reads 125-126 and other 115ish. With the microwave on it goes becomes more unbalanced 130v one lug to 110v on the other



Edit2: with the washer a full when agitates(using the motor) voltage dropped to 97v on one leg and the 140v ish on the other. Again coming in from the service line to the main breaker. That seems to be getting too much so I called in with the PoCo reporting a partial outage.










share|improve this question
















Had an instance before when I had a voltage while running on a treadmill. I flipped all the breakers and it seem to work again for a month and now it is back and now when we use a high load appliance like the microwave the voltage drops.



I tested all the breakers by adding a load and it seems it’s on one leg. And I tested the lugs and the voltage did drop with a load. Unfortunately the tested I am using isn’t digital and doesn’t display the actual voltage but the 120 light is completely off under load and only the 24v is light. The 120v light comes back on when the appliance turns off.



Is there a problem in the house on one of the circuits? Or does the drop on the lug indicate a problem before the breaker panel?



Thanks in advance for any advice.



Edit: I picked up a digital multimeter and now under normal loads the one leg reads 125-126 and other 115ish. With the microwave on it goes becomes more unbalanced 130v one lug to 110v on the other



Edit2: with the washer a full when agitates(using the motor) voltage dropped to 97v on one leg and the 140v ish on the other. Again coming in from the service line to the main breaker. That seems to be getting too much so I called in with the PoCo reporting a partial outage.







electrical wiring






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 3 hours ago







ecco88

















asked 9 hours ago









ecco88ecco88

25518




25518













  • Can you get a better tester that displays the actual voltage?

    – ThreePhaseEel
    9 hours ago











  • Getting one now

    – ecco88
    9 hours ago











  • If you keep turning off loads/circuits, do the legs start to balance each other out?

    – ThreePhaseEel
    7 hours ago













  • Actually turning off the breakers results in little or no change. One leg is 125-126 other now is 116-117. I literally had every breaker on the one leg turned off. Should I rearrange the breakers to see if it changes? Is it an issue on one of the branches that is causing the problem. Seems more like a service line issue.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago



















  • Can you get a better tester that displays the actual voltage?

    – ThreePhaseEel
    9 hours ago











  • Getting one now

    – ecco88
    9 hours ago











  • If you keep turning off loads/circuits, do the legs start to balance each other out?

    – ThreePhaseEel
    7 hours ago













  • Actually turning off the breakers results in little or no change. One leg is 125-126 other now is 116-117. I literally had every breaker on the one leg turned off. Should I rearrange the breakers to see if it changes? Is it an issue on one of the branches that is causing the problem. Seems more like a service line issue.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago

















Can you get a better tester that displays the actual voltage?

– ThreePhaseEel
9 hours ago





Can you get a better tester that displays the actual voltage?

– ThreePhaseEel
9 hours ago













Getting one now

– ecco88
9 hours ago





Getting one now

– ecco88
9 hours ago













If you keep turning off loads/circuits, do the legs start to balance each other out?

– ThreePhaseEel
7 hours ago







If you keep turning off loads/circuits, do the legs start to balance each other out?

– ThreePhaseEel
7 hours ago















Actually turning off the breakers results in little or no change. One leg is 125-126 other now is 116-117. I literally had every breaker on the one leg turned off. Should I rearrange the breakers to see if it changes? Is it an issue on one of the branches that is causing the problem. Seems more like a service line issue.

– ecco88
6 hours ago





Actually turning off the breakers results in little or no change. One leg is 125-126 other now is 116-117. I literally had every breaker on the one leg turned off. Should I rearrange the breakers to see if it changes? Is it an issue on one of the branches that is causing the problem. Seems more like a service line issue.

– ecco88
6 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















5














I bet I'm in a race with ThreePhaseEel to post this.



Call your power company NOW and report an outage



Specifically, a lost neutral.



My company came out in less than 2 hours on a Saturday. It will be free, and most likely they'll find a problem on pole or service drop. Just the same, helps to have the front off your service panel.



As you know, American houses get 240V power, but appliances are 120V, or half. What keeps the center centered is the neutral.



If you lose neutral, then each leg becomes biddlebooble, but the two legs still add up to 240V pretty much on-the-money. That means when one is under 120V, the other is over by the same amount. And the high leg can switch. This is what makes it an emergency: the significant overvoltage can blow out appliances and start fires.



At this point it seems like a partial failure, but it's likely to become a total failure soon. My power company just fixed one of those, our neutral was flapping in the breeze, but a neighbor's hot was nearly worn through from a bad termination on the pole and years of cable swaying just wearing it down.



Also, total neutral failures will act like partial failures, because they are still able to return some neutral current via earth to the transformer's ground strap.






share|improve this answer
























  • Thanks Harper. I went and got a digital meter to get actual readings . Are my actual readings delta (125-115) large enough to call the PoCo?- Should I call the poco and say I think there is a lose neutral? My meter is inside but maybe it is even before the meter - maybe on the drip loop outside?

    – ecco88
    5 hours ago













  • If you can load it up with additional loads, and the center point moves more but the endpoints don't sag, that's a lost neutral. The drip loop is a likely candidate, the poletop is even more likely.

    – Harper
    5 hours ago





















1














On your main breaker, Are you checking at the connection of the service to the breaker or after the breaker? If after the breaker try turning all loads off and flip the main breaker 10+ times, this can reseat the hammers in the breaker. If measuring prior to the breaker call your utility and tell them you are having a service problem.






share|improve this answer
























  • Tested on the lugs so before the main breaker.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago











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2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes








2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









5














I bet I'm in a race with ThreePhaseEel to post this.



Call your power company NOW and report an outage



Specifically, a lost neutral.



My company came out in less than 2 hours on a Saturday. It will be free, and most likely they'll find a problem on pole or service drop. Just the same, helps to have the front off your service panel.



As you know, American houses get 240V power, but appliances are 120V, or half. What keeps the center centered is the neutral.



If you lose neutral, then each leg becomes biddlebooble, but the two legs still add up to 240V pretty much on-the-money. That means when one is under 120V, the other is over by the same amount. And the high leg can switch. This is what makes it an emergency: the significant overvoltage can blow out appliances and start fires.



At this point it seems like a partial failure, but it's likely to become a total failure soon. My power company just fixed one of those, our neutral was flapping in the breeze, but a neighbor's hot was nearly worn through from a bad termination on the pole and years of cable swaying just wearing it down.



Also, total neutral failures will act like partial failures, because they are still able to return some neutral current via earth to the transformer's ground strap.






share|improve this answer
























  • Thanks Harper. I went and got a digital meter to get actual readings . Are my actual readings delta (125-115) large enough to call the PoCo?- Should I call the poco and say I think there is a lose neutral? My meter is inside but maybe it is even before the meter - maybe on the drip loop outside?

    – ecco88
    5 hours ago













  • If you can load it up with additional loads, and the center point moves more but the endpoints don't sag, that's a lost neutral. The drip loop is a likely candidate, the poletop is even more likely.

    – Harper
    5 hours ago


















5














I bet I'm in a race with ThreePhaseEel to post this.



Call your power company NOW and report an outage



Specifically, a lost neutral.



My company came out in less than 2 hours on a Saturday. It will be free, and most likely they'll find a problem on pole or service drop. Just the same, helps to have the front off your service panel.



As you know, American houses get 240V power, but appliances are 120V, or half. What keeps the center centered is the neutral.



If you lose neutral, then each leg becomes biddlebooble, but the two legs still add up to 240V pretty much on-the-money. That means when one is under 120V, the other is over by the same amount. And the high leg can switch. This is what makes it an emergency: the significant overvoltage can blow out appliances and start fires.



At this point it seems like a partial failure, but it's likely to become a total failure soon. My power company just fixed one of those, our neutral was flapping in the breeze, but a neighbor's hot was nearly worn through from a bad termination on the pole and years of cable swaying just wearing it down.



Also, total neutral failures will act like partial failures, because they are still able to return some neutral current via earth to the transformer's ground strap.






share|improve this answer
























  • Thanks Harper. I went and got a digital meter to get actual readings . Are my actual readings delta (125-115) large enough to call the PoCo?- Should I call the poco and say I think there is a lose neutral? My meter is inside but maybe it is even before the meter - maybe on the drip loop outside?

    – ecco88
    5 hours ago













  • If you can load it up with additional loads, and the center point moves more but the endpoints don't sag, that's a lost neutral. The drip loop is a likely candidate, the poletop is even more likely.

    – Harper
    5 hours ago
















5












5








5







I bet I'm in a race with ThreePhaseEel to post this.



Call your power company NOW and report an outage



Specifically, a lost neutral.



My company came out in less than 2 hours on a Saturday. It will be free, and most likely they'll find a problem on pole or service drop. Just the same, helps to have the front off your service panel.



As you know, American houses get 240V power, but appliances are 120V, or half. What keeps the center centered is the neutral.



If you lose neutral, then each leg becomes biddlebooble, but the two legs still add up to 240V pretty much on-the-money. That means when one is under 120V, the other is over by the same amount. And the high leg can switch. This is what makes it an emergency: the significant overvoltage can blow out appliances and start fires.



At this point it seems like a partial failure, but it's likely to become a total failure soon. My power company just fixed one of those, our neutral was flapping in the breeze, but a neighbor's hot was nearly worn through from a bad termination on the pole and years of cable swaying just wearing it down.



Also, total neutral failures will act like partial failures, because they are still able to return some neutral current via earth to the transformer's ground strap.






share|improve this answer













I bet I'm in a race with ThreePhaseEel to post this.



Call your power company NOW and report an outage



Specifically, a lost neutral.



My company came out in less than 2 hours on a Saturday. It will be free, and most likely they'll find a problem on pole or service drop. Just the same, helps to have the front off your service panel.



As you know, American houses get 240V power, but appliances are 120V, or half. What keeps the center centered is the neutral.



If you lose neutral, then each leg becomes biddlebooble, but the two legs still add up to 240V pretty much on-the-money. That means when one is under 120V, the other is over by the same amount. And the high leg can switch. This is what makes it an emergency: the significant overvoltage can blow out appliances and start fires.



At this point it seems like a partial failure, but it's likely to become a total failure soon. My power company just fixed one of those, our neutral was flapping in the breeze, but a neighbor's hot was nearly worn through from a bad termination on the pole and years of cable swaying just wearing it down.



Also, total neutral failures will act like partial failures, because they are still able to return some neutral current via earth to the transformer's ground strap.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 6 hours ago









HarperHarper

67.4k344137




67.4k344137













  • Thanks Harper. I went and got a digital meter to get actual readings . Are my actual readings delta (125-115) large enough to call the PoCo?- Should I call the poco and say I think there is a lose neutral? My meter is inside but maybe it is even before the meter - maybe on the drip loop outside?

    – ecco88
    5 hours ago













  • If you can load it up with additional loads, and the center point moves more but the endpoints don't sag, that's a lost neutral. The drip loop is a likely candidate, the poletop is even more likely.

    – Harper
    5 hours ago





















  • Thanks Harper. I went and got a digital meter to get actual readings . Are my actual readings delta (125-115) large enough to call the PoCo?- Should I call the poco and say I think there is a lose neutral? My meter is inside but maybe it is even before the meter - maybe on the drip loop outside?

    – ecco88
    5 hours ago













  • If you can load it up with additional loads, and the center point moves more but the endpoints don't sag, that's a lost neutral. The drip loop is a likely candidate, the poletop is even more likely.

    – Harper
    5 hours ago



















Thanks Harper. I went and got a digital meter to get actual readings . Are my actual readings delta (125-115) large enough to call the PoCo?- Should I call the poco and say I think there is a lose neutral? My meter is inside but maybe it is even before the meter - maybe on the drip loop outside?

– ecco88
5 hours ago







Thanks Harper. I went and got a digital meter to get actual readings . Are my actual readings delta (125-115) large enough to call the PoCo?- Should I call the poco and say I think there is a lose neutral? My meter is inside but maybe it is even before the meter - maybe on the drip loop outside?

– ecco88
5 hours ago















If you can load it up with additional loads, and the center point moves more but the endpoints don't sag, that's a lost neutral. The drip loop is a likely candidate, the poletop is even more likely.

– Harper
5 hours ago







If you can load it up with additional loads, and the center point moves more but the endpoints don't sag, that's a lost neutral. The drip loop is a likely candidate, the poletop is even more likely.

– Harper
5 hours ago















1














On your main breaker, Are you checking at the connection of the service to the breaker or after the breaker? If after the breaker try turning all loads off and flip the main breaker 10+ times, this can reseat the hammers in the breaker. If measuring prior to the breaker call your utility and tell them you are having a service problem.






share|improve this answer
























  • Tested on the lugs so before the main breaker.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago
















1














On your main breaker, Are you checking at the connection of the service to the breaker or after the breaker? If after the breaker try turning all loads off and flip the main breaker 10+ times, this can reseat the hammers in the breaker. If measuring prior to the breaker call your utility and tell them you are having a service problem.






share|improve this answer
























  • Tested on the lugs so before the main breaker.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago














1












1








1







On your main breaker, Are you checking at the connection of the service to the breaker or after the breaker? If after the breaker try turning all loads off and flip the main breaker 10+ times, this can reseat the hammers in the breaker. If measuring prior to the breaker call your utility and tell them you are having a service problem.






share|improve this answer













On your main breaker, Are you checking at the connection of the service to the breaker or after the breaker? If after the breaker try turning all loads off and flip the main breaker 10+ times, this can reseat the hammers in the breaker. If measuring prior to the breaker call your utility and tell them you are having a service problem.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 7 hours ago









Ed BealEd Beal

31.6k12145




31.6k12145













  • Tested on the lugs so before the main breaker.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago



















  • Tested on the lugs so before the main breaker.

    – ecco88
    6 hours ago

















Tested on the lugs so before the main breaker.

– ecco88
6 hours ago





Tested on the lugs so before the main breaker.

– ecco88
6 hours ago


















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